Travel Unplanned: Hong Kong
Your casual, no-itinerary guide to Hong Kong: what to do, eat, and know before you go.
Over the years, I have found the sweet spot between a tightly scheduled and free-flowing travel itinerary. Finding the balance between museums and shopping or sightseeing and lounging at the beach has been my way of experiencing the world without burning out. In my latest travels, I only plan transportation, accommodation, and some activities (e.g., the Pokémon Cafe in Tokyo) that require pre-booking. Having a handy list of things to see, do, and eat is almost always enough.
Of course, this approach does not suit all situations. No one should go hiking in the mountains without proper planning!
All that to say — welcome to my series, Travel Unplanned. It's part travel guide, part journal: a collection of takeaways from my spontaneous, itinerary-free adventures. If you like this kind of thing, feel free to subscribe to get updates.
I went on a sabbatical to travel solo for 3 months, mostly unplanned, and I’ll share the journey here. The first stop: Hong Kong!
Hong Kong has a special place in my heart. It’s one of those cities that imprinted on me in my 20s, where I spent long weekends exploring its culture, food, and chaos. It used to be just a 2-hour flight away, but now it’s so far.
As the saying goes, distance makes the heart grow fonder. After 8 years, I made my way back, and this time without any itinerary for a couple of weeks. All vibes, no plans. My cousin lives there, and since it wasn’t my first time, I felt fine going solo... just me and my wildly overpacked suitcase stuffed for this 3-month trip.
Glitzy and grungy
To me, Hong Kong is both glitzy and grungy, a city where luxury and hardship don’t just coexist, they collide. Malls and boutiques rise beside weathered apartment blocks and clotheslines fluttering from windows, each part of the city’s layered skyline and way of life. Many people walk the streets draped in designer labels, sometimes head to toe.
It’s not really about whether the pieces are real or knock-offs; it’s about how deeply the idea of it all felt so deeply woven into daily life. Having been away from Asia for so long, I’d almost forgotten what that kind of status- and image-driven culture feels like. It felt like a reverse culture shock, to be honest. It has always been ingrained in me that dressing well, being skinny, and aspiring for luxury are important to be treated and perceived well. I was only there for 14 days, but still felt the pull to fit in. To look the part.
Honestly? I might just be easily influenced or my mind’s attempt to reset to factory settings. Lol.
But still, I missed it. The Hong Kong hustle and bustle: Tsim Sha Tsui, Victoria Harbour, Causeway Bay, the fully packed, air-conditioned MTRs, the fancy malls, the lively street markets, and the food stalls. I nearly cried seeing 7-Elevens everywhere (convenience stores in Asia really are superior)! There, life moves fast, the grind never stops, and the energy just pulls you in.
And me? I tried to just be and absorb it all, past and present, old comforts and new corners, ten thousand steps a day at a time.
🌇 The sights
I stayed at a tiny hostel/hotel in Causeway Bay, right across from my cousin’s flat. It’s right smack in the middle of Times Square Mall and boutiques. It was a convenient base, well-connected to public transport and restaurants are within walking distance.
While I didn’t go to Disneyland and Ocean Park this time, my list of places to visit still had a mix of touristy and non-touristy sights.
Day 1-4: Macau. My cousin, aunt, mom, and I crossed the border to Macau and spent 3 days there. We took the bus both ways; it was longer than taking a ferry, but still comfy and convenient. Macau was small, and there really is not much to see, mainly casinos, The Venetian, the old town, and the Ruins of St. Paul’s. We have a relative who lives there, and it was nice to have a mini-reunion! Other than seeing family, Macau is sadly on the list of places I probably won’t come back to again.
Day 5: Victoria Harbor ferry and Tsim Sha Tsui. My jetlag was hell and I could barely get up. On this first day back in HK, we decided to take it slow and easy. From Causeway Bay, we took the Star Ferry across Victoria Harbour to Tsim Sha Tsui (TST). The ferry ride was iconic, unique, short, and fun, only around 10 minutes. From the Star Ferry Pier, we strolled along the Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade, past Harbour City Mall, 1881 Heritage, and up Nathan Road. TST is a well-known shopping area, from luxury to street markets, so we mostly window-shopped all day.
When it got dark, we went back to the waterfront and watched the Hong Kong skyline light up! At 8 pm, there is a light and music show on the water. Honestly, it was a little cheesy, but overall amazing. For a more immersive feel, it is also quite popular to rent out a yacht or go on the Aqua Luna Harbour Cruise. We didn’t and were content staying on solid ground. Nearby, we looked around the grand and flashy K11 Musea Mall before heading back home for the day.
Day 6: Central and Mid-Levels. We started the day (and I mean at noon) walking along the world’s longest outdoor escalator system, the Mid-Levels Escalator, a winding stretch of moving walkways and stairs that runs 800 meters up through Central.
From here, we visited Tai Kwun, an old prison that was converted into an immersive museum. It was pretty cool, and admission is free. The museum displays old bunk beds, barred windows, and communal toilets, accompanied by audio clips and old photos that tell the stories of inmates and officers. The vibe was not depressing, just interesting and moving. There is also a café that goes along with the theme: prison.
We walked back down to grab dinner at Yat Lok Restaurant, a famous, no-frills Michelin-starred spot known for its roast goose. There’s usually a long line, but we got lucky and were seated quickly. The service was… efficient (not very friendly), but the food was incredible. I especially loved the roast goose and char siu.
For dessert, we stopped by Messina, where I tried the egg tart–flavored ice cream. Honestly? Unexpectedly delicious! I’m still dreaming about it today.
The Peak is also around this area, but that’s for another day. We were too tired from walking and had to think of what to do the next day.
Day 7: Stanley. My cousin planned a day away from the usual sights. I had no idea what or where Stanley was, I just happily tagged along. Turns out, Stanley is a charming seaside village, tucked on the southern coast of Hong Kong Island, almost an hour away from Central. The change of pace was immediate: slower, breezier, and far less chaotic.
We had snacks from one of the waterfront stalls, wandered along the promenade, and explored the Stanley Market, a laid-back mix of souvenirs, clothes, and knick-knacks. The whole area had a relaxed, beach-town feel, a surprising contrast to the buzz of the city. It was the kind of spot that made you want to sit longer, breathe deeper, and forget you ever had notifications. I like it! <3
Day 8: Cheung Chau. Another day, another ferry adventure! This time, my cousin took us to Cheung Chau, a small outlying island that feels like a totally different (and much more rural) side of Hong Kong. No skyscrapers here. Just narrow lanes, bicycles everywhere, and that easy, salty sea breeze.
It’s known for its seafood, temples, and the famous Bun Festival, though we weren’t there during that time. Still, it had its charm. We wandered along the harbor, browsed little shops, and had lunch at one of the seaside restaurants. And my favorite of all, the mango mochi! Everything was simple, cheap, and just really satisfying.
We also walked to Tung Wan beach and took a few photos. No one was swimming, and we weren’t exactly prepared to dive in either, but it was nice just to take a nature break. By late afternoon, we caught the ferry back, sun-tired, a little sticky, and full.
Day 9: Monster Building, Michelin-starred dumplings, and The Peak. A true touristy day. My cousins and I set out to see the Monster Building in Quarry Bay, the Insta-famous residential block you’ve probably seen a thousand times online. Honestly, we got a little lost getting there, but we eventually figured it out.
And wow. It was massive. Standing in the courtyard, surrounded by walls of identical windows and balconies stacked like Tetris blocks, it was hard not to feel small. What struck me most was that this wasn’t just a photo spot. People actually live here. Real lives, real homes, behind every window.
It’s become such a popular landmark that there’s even a tiny % Arabica coffee shop tucked into a corner. It’s sleek and minimalist, and probably far too expensive for most of the residents here.
On the way to The Peak, we ate at Cheung Hing Kee Shanghai Pan-Fried Buns, a Michelin-starred dumpling place. It was seriously good. Juicy, flavorful, and definitely worth the visit!
We got lucky and managed to buy Peak Tram tickets right around sunset, without pre-booking. A little money-saving tip: take the tram going up and the bus going down. The bus ride back offered a great view of neighborhoods we wouldn’t have seen otherwise.
Day 10: Ngong Ping Cable Car and TeamLabs: Continuous. There were slow and chill days, just roaming around shops, queuing for the famous egg tarts at Bakehouse (yes, I went back more than once), and soaking in the city in no particular rush.
One of the more scenic experiences was riding the Ngong Ping 360 cable car. The ride itself was long, peaceful, and offered panoramic views of Lantau Island, the sea, and the surrounding mountains. At the top, we explored Ngong Ping Village, which felt slightly touristy but still worth a visit. It was nice to stroll around, grab a bite, and see the Tian Tan Buddha from a distance. We didn’t hike up the steps this time, next trip, maybe!
Then, in the evening, we visited TeamLabs: Continuous, an immersive outdoor exhibition that was part art, part experience. These are giant inflated balls, lit up in colorful muted tones. They make sounds when pushed or disturbed!
This was a lovely way to wrap up my Hong Kong trip.
🧳 The essentials
Apart from my flights and accommodations, I didn’t really research or plan anything. But here are the surprise things I wish I’d known in advance:
Accommodation: The hotels and Airbnbs are tiny and expensive, especially in popular areas like TST or Causeway Bay. It almost felt extortionate. Even budget stays can be cramped, think “bed and suitcase barely fit” kind of small.
Public transport (MTR, buses, ferry): It is fast, cheap, reliable, and efficient. It can be confusing for first-timers and tourists because…
Google Maps doesn’t work well: While it’s decent for looking up locations and nearby stations, it often fails to give accurate walking directions, especially for bus routes or station exits. Instead, use local apps like MTR Mobile, Moovit, or Citymapper.
Octopus Transport Card: This is a magical card that lets you buy and pay for public transport but also for items from convenience stores and some restaurants, etc. That was such a foreign concept and an interesting surprise for me. Berlin BVG could never! In Germany, we still can’t pay with credit/debit cards in some establishments. The downside is you can only top it up with cash, and unused credit isn’t refundable, so don’t overload it on your last days.
Bring cash: Cash is still essential for smaller purchases, especially at street markets, dai pai dongs, or local food stalls. You also need it for topping up the Octopus card.
Bring a Visa debit/credit card: Not really sure why, but only my Visa card worked. Luckily, I always bring my Wise card when traveling, so I had no issues.
E-sim and VPN: While there is free Wi-Fi literally everywhere in Hong Kong, it’s still wise to have access directly on your phone. There are so many providers out there, my trusty ones are Airalo and Nomad. VPN is also important! Hong Kong has more internet access than mainland China, but it’s still a Special Administrative Region under Chinese sovereignty, and some services may be restricted. It’s also just good practice for securing your data.
Check the weather: The weather app, called MyObservatory, is more accurate than Apple Weather.
Bring power adapters: Hong Kong uses UK-style Type G plugs, so pack an adapter if you’re coming from anywhere else.
Prepare for the crowd: There are a lot of people on the streets at all hours. I wasn’t mentally prepared for it. Berlin isn’t exactly like Scandinavia, but we still maintain a decent amount of personal space. You’ll definitely feel it on sidewalks, escalators, trains, and especially the MTR during peak hours. Pace yourself and plan some quiet breaks.
Be respectful!
Wonderful read, I’m dying to go back to Hong Kong!
Sounds like a wonderfully balanced and fun itinerary! Thank you for sharing!
I hope I get to Hong Kong at some point.
I have a similar approach to travel. I keep a list of can't miss locations/experiences, neighborhoods to explore, and "the rest" for things that would be fun but won't be crushing if we don't get to it. I also stick everything onto one GoogleMaps list and try to spend days in areas more than with a to-do list.